After treatments for the expected drying period, walls treated to detect increased humidity may experience the sudden or gradual reappearance of damp spots that then dry out. As the water table drops in the warmer months of summer, the moisture marks created by rising humidity usually begin to dry up and seem to be getting better. The same “absorption” problem occurs in old buildings, where water moistens the floor or concrete underneath a suspended floor: water vapor rises into the air, condenses on walls and climbs the faces of bricks or blocks, passes through the DPC layer and enters the wall through plaster. However, when water is present below the plastic layer, usually in modern buildings due to an internal leak of water above the soil membrane, it simply avoids the impervious layer by being sucked through the plaster and the back of the well-fitted wooden plinth.
As the water table rises, moisture also rises through the masonry, which acts like a wick that absorbs groundwater. That the anti-humidity layer did not break, but rather that the moisture was due to a rise in the external ground level or to a leak of water from a drain, a main water pipe, a dirty water pipe or a central heating pipe. That the moisture was due to a leak of water from a drain, a main water pipe, a dirty water pipe, or a central heating pipe located under a suspended floor. That the humidity was not natural at all, but was due to a leak of water from a drain, a main water pipe, a dirty water pipe, or a central heating pipe.
That the moisture was due to debris (mortar, sand, pieces of brick, dirty flanges, poorly installed cavity insulation) and, then, moisture from elevated external soil levels or from a water leak from a drain, dirty water pipe or dirty water pipe can pass through the cavity from the outside. Otherwise, the problem could be an internal leak. That the moisture was due to a leak of water from a drain, a main water pipe, a dirty water pipe, or a central heating pipe. However, if the pores in the mortar line become water repellent or become clogged, the water cannot rise because it cannot pass through the mortar beds to do so.
This publication will explain how to treat rising humidity (what symptoms need to be detected, what paints and coatings can work internally and externally once the problem has been solved, and solutions for rising humidity), how injecting SikaMur InjectToCream 100 into a series of holes in the wall can form a water-repellent barrier that blocks rising moisture in the future and also allows previously damaged plaster to dry. That the moisture was due to rising external ground levels or to water leaking from a drain, main water pipe, dirty water pipe, or central heating pipe. That the humidity was not natural at all, but was due to rising outdoor ground levels or to water leaking from a drain, main water pipe, dirty water pipe, or central heating pipe.
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